When Not Sticking to the Terms of Agreement is a Good Thing!!

Mr. Pleasant Face.  I took this picture about three days after the incident.  At the same corner, by the busy street in Bangkok, where I met him first.  Bangkok, Thailand, Sept 2012.

Mopeds, cheaper than cabs, faster than tuk-tuks!!

We are taught to keep our word.

There are exceptions to every rule though. 

Sometimes it is better not to stick to the terms of agreement.

I had to go to Malaysian embassy, and then to the bus station to hop towns.  There was not enough time.  Cabs as always are fussy.  I saw these guys on mopeds, and asked the price.

‘Hundred Baht’ he said.

I have been around Bangkok so I know a bit.  I have also learnt how to say the numbers in Thai.  By the way knowing numbers is one of the first things that is useful when you are new in a country.  It helps everything from talking about bus numbers, street address, financial transactions and of course haggling.

‘No, 70,’ I held out my fingers to be clear.   A stretched left palm and two fingers from my right hand.

‘No’ he shook his head.  And Smiled.  He had a round chubby face, with a very warm smile. He knew little English. 

I went around the corner looking for other moped drivers. 

I was smiling inwardly.  Three years ago was the first time when I acknowledged moped as a valid means of transportation.  I had a traveling companion for about a week in during my south-east Asia back packing trip.  He was a young man from Germany, on his first trip outside of Europe and he chose Thailand to be his first stop.  And he said, ‘lets take a moped to make sure we reach the market in time.’

I thought he meant to ride one ourselves, so I declined.  The he pointed out, ‘there, see that is what I mean.’

There were two girls sitting on a moped behind his lean Thai man  in a florescent green overall.  The color of these overalls varies with the company that runs the business.

I was wary of mopeds.  But the moment I got on, to save time, I had to acknowledge the enterprising and creative spirit of Asians.  Moped was fast, it was cheaper than cabs, and due to its size and shape could easily navigate through the chaotic traffic and back alleys.  But most importantly it was ‘naturally air conditioned.’  The only drawback was that there was no protection from rain.  But even then, cabs are hard to find when it is raining.  So, if it was drizzling, mopeds were still the better option.   In the last two trips I have used them frequently.  That is the best thing about returning to a country repeatedly.  You get to know it, you course through its culture and ways like a ‘near native’ and then you delve into its spirit.  The first few times one only remains a tourist and never really understands the country.  And Thailand has a special place in my heart.

In all my travels Asia fascinates me.  From every angle it reflects its metal.

Nowhere else can you match its variety in cuisine, ways of dressing, languages, modes of transportation and many other things.  It is an indication of a civilization.   And an indication in variety in thought process, ways of living and an undying desire to reinvent itself.

For all its talk about diversity in the US, I always wondered why 500 years of living there had not resulted in any clear American cuisine? No specialty in Food. Every delicacy is borrowed from somewhere else.  I often wondered if there were any restaurants that serve Native American food?  Popcorn and chocolate chip cookies were the highlights at the US stall at an exhibition of cultures in a Home Ec contest in Botswana, my first semester.  That was my first realization of how limited the ‘outside’ world was.  That was my first recognition of the richness of Asia. 

When I lived in Fiji and Botswana, I wondered why they had little concept of street food.  One can understand it may be a result of small population spread out over large distances.  But transport?  I mean why has Fiji or Botswana not come up with rickshaws, or three wheelers?  They could certainly use it in towns and cities.  It could provide jobs.  Why must we always have cabs that are expensive and fuel-intensive.  The same was the case in South Africa this year.  They could certainly use mopeds, three wheelers and rickshaws for within the cities, at least in Durban that remains warm even during winter--but for some reason they stick to cabs.

So, back to my search for an available moped. 

I looked around and other moped riders were busy reading newspaper and were not interested in budging.

Mr. Pleasant face was reading his newspaper too, but every time I walked past, he would look up and smile.

‘Oh come on’ I gestured again, ’70, 70’.’

Sometimes I wonder if all this makes a difference.  The difference of 30 baht is only a dollar difference.  But over a period of time this difference affects you. Besides the interesting thing that happens when we switch currency is that we think in the currency at hand.  It does not seem like ’1 dollar’ but 30 baht, which is good to buy a loaf of bread, a cheap meal on the street, and certainly two bus tickets, and one ticket for sky train.  So, in the sense of their purchasing power a dollar and 30 baht are not the same.

As I was strolling, I wanted to agree to his call of hundred when he gestured, ‘80’ with his hands.

‘Nope, 70!’  Sometimes this interaction is actually quite cute and humorous.

He agreed, and I smiled.

He gave me a helmet, as required by the law.  I hopped on and we whizzed through the crazy Bangkok traffic, arrived at the wrong building (Malaysian Hotel instead of embassy) but finally found our way.

I rummaged through my bag and gave him a hundred.

He returned 30.  I smiled. 

Our smiles were our conversation!  Amazing how much body language can state, across cultures. 

I smiled although I did not feel good about it.  I mean seriously, we can spend so much on ourselves and not think of those who live on so little?  Always trying to mooch them?

I gestured him to wait.  Body language, and gestures go far when words fail.

Got another ten and gave it to him.  So, in one case it was me who was backing out on what I agreed for…..but who cares.

He gave such heart-warming smile that I could have paid him double the amount.

We exchanged this kind look for a few seconds, let out a sigh and a chuckle of recognition of the human spirit and off he went.

As he was driving away, I wanted to run after him and get his picture.  But he was too fast.  Told you Mopeds are swift!!

I hoped that I would see him before I left.  So I was always on the look out at the corner where I met him.

The above picture was taken the day before I was leaving.  He recognized me right away.  His friends teased him as I adjusted the camera shot.  I took a picture of them too, so they did not feel excluded.

He smiled again for the camera.

I was so grateful that I went back on the terms of agreement.  Sometimes, it’s a good thing!!

I was certainly richer for it!